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Click here for current stock at Harris Cyclery. Dura-Ace 10 cassettes have titanium sprockets 18 teeth and larger. Shimano and Shimano-compatible speed cassettes from Harris Cyclery include the new XTR T cassette, intended for MTB use but also suitable for touring and compatible with many Shimano derailers, requiring only a minor modification. Modern indexing systems are so forgiving, however, that many theoretically incompatible combinations actually work fairly well.

For details of spacing, see the spacing cribsheet. A wobbly cassette may result from a loose lockring, or wear of an early Uniglide hub , but there is another potential cause. Shimano uses the trademark "Hyperglide-C" to designate a system with an 11 tooth sprocket. The "C" stands for "compact". These systems are used with smaller-than-usual chainwheel sizes, or on bicycles that have a small drive wheel, or to achieve higher gears.

Due to clearance problems, the cutaway between the splines on tooth sprockets only goes halfway through the sprocket. There are two ways around this problem: You can use Hyperglide-C cassettes on conventional bodies by adding a 1 mm thick spacer to the body before installing the cassette. This is a standard spacer commonly used for fine-tuning chainline with conventional freewheels.

It may be necessary to add a spacer to the right side of the axle in some applications, especially if you wish to make the wheel interchange with other wheels without needing to re-adjust the rear derailer.

Alternately, you can grind a bevel on the ends of the splines of an older body. This is a five-minute job if you have access to a bench grinder. Note, if you install an tooth sprocket on an existing cassette that had a larger top gear, you must also replace the Hyperglide lockring with a Hyperglide-C lockring.

The lockrings made to work with tooth sprockets have a smaller outside diameter. If you use a larger lockring, the side plates of the chain will hit the edge of the lockring, and the chain will not run properly on the tooth sprocket. Hyperglide-C lockrings are compatible with tooth sprockets though not always with larger ones. These are not essential. Their function is convenience, in allowing the cassette to be installed slightly more easily.

To make a custom cassette, you will often need to remove the screws or rivets. Some cassettes use screws with a 4 mm hex head. These can be removed with an adjustable wrench. Some cassettes use screws with a 2 mm Allen head.

These are frequently mistaken for rivets. The easiest way to remove rivets is to grind off the heads where they protrude from the largest sprocket. I generally do this on a bench grinder. It is not difficult to customize Shimano cassettes. If you remove the tooth sprocket from a J, you can make it into a corncob by buying an 18 to put between the 17 and the Alternately, you could make it into a by removing the 19 and the 21, and adding a 12 and an Similar modifications can be done with other ratios.

Generally, the smallest sprocket needs to have a built-in spacer, designed for the top-gear position. For example, if you want a 9-speed, you can start with a Replace the 12 and 13 with a top-position There is no problem mixing 7-speed or 8-speed flat sprockets into a 9-speed cassette, or vice versa. If you want to get finicky, you can compensate by using a wider spacer next to a narrower sprocket, or vice versa.

On the other hand, if you use 9- or speed sprockets with built-in spacers in a 7-or 8-speed cassette, the spacing will be too narrow for the wider chains used with these sprockets. You should use only speed sprockets in a speed cassette, because the internal width of the chain is narrower.

Custom Cassettes for sale from Harris Cyclery I. Interactive Glide Some Shimano 7- and 8-speed cassettes carried the Hyperglide principle even farther, by adding ramps and contouring to both sides of the sprockets. To do this while maintaining the full thickness of the teeth, the designers had to make the sprockets thicker.

Since the sprockets are thicker, the spacers must be thinner to maintain the correct spacing. SRAM chains are compatible with both types. Some experimentation may be required for best results with a mixed setup. Most Shimano Freehub bodies are interchangeable. Very early Freehubs sometimes identifiable by the absence of the typical bulge on the right end of the hub barrel which have non-interchangeable bodies. The Freehub body of these hubs is held on only by the axle bearings, and will slip off once the axle is removed.

Hubs that use the " silent clutch " mechanism. FH and FH Dura-Ace bodies, which have a cartridge bearing inside the Freehub body and use a ratchet inside the hub shell. These bodies are removable using a 5 mm Allen wrench at each side. The fixing nut on the right side unscrews clockwise. Shimano information on the ; FH and FH Dura-Ace bodies, which have returned to a splined attachment between Freehub body and hub shell, but it is larger than the usual one.

It is similar but not interchangeable between these two models. Some disc brake Freehubs including some in the Saint series have a Freehub body that threads into the hub shell. Disassembly may be with a 14mm or 15mm Allen wrench; Shimano FH-M documentation ; Saint Series manuals and diagrams speed bodies, which use a spline connection to the hub shell.

To remove some Freehub bodies or a freewheel , the hub must be spoked into a wheel. However, the most usual kind of Shimano Freehub body can be removed from a bare hub if a cassette is installed. To remove the body, fiirst remove the axle. With a bare hub, clamp the hub barrel lightly between wooden blocks in a vise, so you have both hands free, and position a chain whip to keep the cassette from turning backward. Insert a 10 mm Allen wrench into the fixing bolt in the middle of the body.

Holding the rim, or chain whip, unscrew the hollow fixing bolt conventional right thread, counterclockwise to loosen. The body will lift off. It is secured to the hub shell by the hollow bolt and a set of splines that keep it from rotating. The same procedure works for off-brand freehubs that have a LH threaded fastener accessed from the LH side of the hub, too. Although the most common Shimano bodies are interchangeable at the hub shell, you may have further complications due to incompatibility between your right side cone and the dustcap that comes with a replacement body.

The dustcaps can usually be pried out and interchanged, or you can buy an appropriate right cone to match your new ratchet body. See my page on Dura-Ace Interchangeability for more details on this. Some recent hubs require 15 mm Allen wrench. This generally will increase the over-locknut dimension. As a result you will usually need to re-dish the wheel after doing this upgrade. Shimano lists Freehub bodies as a separate part, or you could cannibalize a hub.

Wheels with damaged rims and good hubs are not hard to find. That will leave you 3. I once set up a bike with zero protrusion, where the axle was flush with the locknuts. This was a fixed-gear with vertical dropouts , and I did it to give me a bit more chain tension adjustability. I put a lot of hard miles on that bike and it never gave me a lick of trouble.

For details on this, see my article on Frame Spacing. Any 7-speed Shimano Hyperglide Freehub will actually work with 8 or 9 sprockets, without any modification! What you need to do is to use 8 of the sprockets from a 9-speed cassette, with the 9-speed spacers -- or 9 of the sprockets from a speed cassette.

Most, but not all , 9- and speed shifters will work. The limit stops on the derailer will cause the useless position on the shifter to be locked out, so this will work as a perfectly normal 8- or 9-speed rig.

Reader Justin Mohar writes: I also, of course, used 10 speed shifters and chain Dura Ace. This setup worked surprisingly well; the only issue was that shifting across the spot where the missing cog should have been was rather slow in both directions.

Feel free to post this info with your next update. Justin is right about the reason for slow shifting. This issue is more acute with the narrower speed inter-sprocket spacing. If instead, you remove the smallest or largest sprocket, all of the ramps will line up. Most speed cassettes , and the fancier 9-speed cassettes , use a spider assembly for the larger sprockets, and so you would only be able to remove the smallest sprocket. You may need then to replace the second sprocket with one that has a built-in flange.

You could even have all 8 of 8 sprockets on a 7-speed body if you go to the trouble of dishing the inner sprocket -- even a 9 of 9 or 10 of 10 if you bolt the innermost sprocket to the next smaller one. Dished sprockets were at one time available from Tom Ritchie, and are available now on eBay. It also can be a do-it-yourself project. More details are here.

Many of the off-brand hubs have the body riveted onto the hub shell. Some "premium" off-brand hubs use aluminum bodies to save weight.

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Total 1 comments.
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